In the heart of the Alentejo region, in southern Portugal, where once there was only abandoned land and silence, a vineyard and a small winery took shape. The project belongs to Hamilton Reis, a trained agronomist and winemaker, who set out to create a wine that would be entirely his own – from the soil to the bottle. The result is Natus, a handcrafted wine that now features on the wine lists of several Michelin-starred restaurants across Portugal.
A vineyard built from the ground up
The journey began in 2008, when Hamilton and his partner Susana acquired a plot of land with no electricity or running water. Only a few centuries-old olive trees remained, which were later carefully transplanted and still provide the family’s olive oil.
Determined to prepare the land without compromising its natural integrity, Hamilton applied organic farming practicesfrom the outset, using livestock for natural fertilisation. Local neighbours were sceptical. Many doubted the feasibility of planting a biological vineyard there. Today, some of those same neighbours visit the property to learn from his methods.
After nearly a decade of preparation, the first vines were planted in 2017, trained vertically to create natural shade and protect the grapes from sunburn. In 2020, the first harvest was completed, and in 2022, the first bottle of Natus reached the market – 14 years after the project began.
A house with a winery beneath
The family home, designed from scratch, houses the winery on the ground floor, a small-scale operation that Hamilton calls his “garage winery.” A long, thin scar runs across the outer wall of the house – a construction fault never quite corrected. Today, it stands as a visible reminder of the obstacles overcome to reach this point.
Technical expertise meets ancestral knowledge
Born in Porto, Hamilton Reis, 49, has a background in Agricultural Engineering and Microbiology, and later completed a postgraduate degree in Viticulture and Oenology. His professional journey includes winemaking experience in Australia, New Zealand, and renowned Portuguese estates such as Herdade dos Grous, Cortes de Cima, and currently, Herdade do Mouchão, where he serves as Director of Winemaking.
His deep knowledge of the Vidigueira sub-region led him to select the site for the Natus vineyard. The land’s schist soils, proximity to an abundant aquifer, and the protective presence of the Serra do Mendro create a unique microclimate, with hot days and cool nights ideal for balanced grape maturation.
Natus and Intus: two paths, same origin
Today, the project yields around 20,000 bottles per year from approximately 30 tonnes of grapes, produced across four hectares of vineyard. The vines include local Portuguese grape varieties, such as Castelão, Alfrocheiro, Tinta Miúda, and Trincadeira, grown in dry-farming conditions.
Hamilton produces two wine ranges – Natus and Intus – both in white and red. Though sourced from the same vineyard, their vinification diverges just before fermentation. Intus ferments in stainless steel and reflects the grape’s natural expression. Natus, on the other hand, undergoes alcoholic fermentation in clay amphorae, followed by malolactic fermentation and ageing in old oak barrels for one year.
For Hamilton, this distinction is key:
“The grape is natural, but the wine is made by man.”
He avoids the term “natural wine”, preferring a more accurate understanding of the human role in the winemaking process.
Limited production, growing recognition
Though limited in quantity, Natus wines have received national and international praise. The brand was named Best Emerging Producer by Revista de Vinhos, and included among the Top Wines of the Year by Grandes Escolhas. Wine critics such as Julia Harding (Jancis Robinson team) and Mark Squires (formerly Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate) have commended the wines for their authenticity and precision.
These wines are not widely distributed, but can be found in several Michelin-starred restaurants, including Belcanto in Lisbon, Ocean in Porches, Pedro Lemos in Porto, and Il Gallo D’Oro in Funchal.
A craft guided by conviction
More than a winemaker, Hamilton Reis is a craftsman who works closely with the vineyard, the soil, and the cellar. He combines scientific knowledge with ancestral techniques, including the exclusive use of amphorae for fermentation. Each vintage reflects the land, but also the care, choices, and time invested by the person behind it.
In the words he often shares with visitors:
“Nature gives us the grape, but man makes the wine.”
