In an interview with Alentrium.pt, the Évora-based chef discusses responsibility, identity and the future of Alentejo cuisine
By journalist Augusta Serrano
The Food Love Fest 2026, a travelling gastronomic event promoted by Turismo do Alentejo e Ribatejo, was presented at Herdade da Fonte Santa, in Arraiolos, home to the Mainova wine tourism project.
The initiative brought together chefs, journalists, influencers, producers and stakeholders from the tourism and hospitality sectors, combining a territorial visit, a press conference and an open discussion on the role of gastronomy in positioning the Alentejo as a tourism destination.
On site, Alentrium.pt spoke with chef Afonso Dantas, recently awarded a Michelin star at the restaurant A Cozinha do Paço, in Évora — the first in the municipality to receive this distinction.
Interview | Afonso Dantas, Michelin-starred chef
Augusta Serrano: What does receiving a Michelin star represent at this stage of your career?
“Although I am not from Alentejo, carrying the region’s flag among its establishments is always a source of pride. Naturally, it also brings a great sense of responsibility. A Michelin star — the highest recognition in global gastronomy — increases our awareness of the work that needs to be done and of what is already being done on a daily basis.”
“It is a privilege to bring this recognition to Évora. I feel very grateful and very happy. I cannot say I expected it — it is always a surprise. However, we are aware of our work and knew we could be among the contenders. We worked hard for this moment and now the focus is on continuity.”
How do you approach traditional Alentejo cuisine within a fine dining context?
“This discussion, held during the festival, focused on both author-driven cuisine and traditional cooking, in a region that is now internationally recognised for its gastronomy. When we think of dishes such as lamb, dogfish soup, açorda or tomato soup, the question arises: how should these dishes be approached?”
“I believe they should be reinterpreted creatively, without losing their identity. There is room for everything — for truly regional, traditional cuisine and for more creative approaches. The key lies in balancing both worlds.”
Can fine dining and traditional cuisine coexist?
“I have always supported major guides such as the Michelin Guide, which help direct people towards specific gastronomic experiences. However, those who visit Michelin restaurants also visit more traditional establishments.”
“In that sense, both fine dining and traditional cuisine benefit from each other — there is, and will always be, room for both.”
“For example, with a dish like açorda, presentation and technique may differ, but the flavour must remain. Anyone tasting it should clearly recognise its traditional essence.”
Can creativity help preserve gastronomic memory?
“At the restaurant, we currently serve ‘migas da Subiu’, a creatively reinterpreted regional dish. Many of these traditional recipes were born out of necessity — they are, in essence, a form of creative cooking.”
“We aim to replicate the flavour as faithfully as possible, while presenting it differently. The goal is that, even with a new appearance, anyone tasting it — even with their eyes closed — can immediately recognise the dish and be transported back to that memory.”
How did your training in France influence your work?
“French gastronomy is one of the greatest in the world, but what truly stands out is its mindset. There is a deep respect for gastronomy and a strong culture of discipline.”
“They emphasise repetition, precision and the pursuit of perfection, even knowing it cannot be fully achieved. That is what I brought with me — the ability to refine work continuously in order to reach the best possible result.”
When did you realise you wanted to become a chef?
“I started very early. At around 11 or 12 years old, I already knew I wanted to be a chef. I had some early experiences that only confirmed what I felt.”
“I worked during the summers almost playfully, but always with the aim of learning. It quickly became clear that this was the path I wanted to follow.”
How do you manage the level of demand in a Michelin-starred kitchen?
“At A Cozinha do Paço, the level of demand is high, both in the dining room and in the kitchen. The team is fully aware of this standard and works towards it every day.”
“Every dish must be delivered with precision, and the service must match that level. Through repetition, we strive to reach a level of excellence that, although unattainable in absolute terms, we aim to approach as closely as possible.”
What could lead you to leave Alentejo?
“At the moment, it is difficult to imagine leaving Alentejo. I enjoy working and living here, and I have no plans to move.”
“I also have a team and management that trusted me from the beginning, which makes that decision even harder. I am happy and committed to the project, although I recognise that life can always bring unexpected opportunities.”
The presence of chef Afonso Dantas at the Food Love Fest 2026 reinforces the growing role of Alentejo gastronomy in promoting the region, highlighting the balance between tradition and innovation as a key factor in its international recognition.
